Lightbulbs at a bar
November 25, 2015

When I mentioned to a colleague that I was going to try a few Chinese wines, he looked at me sadly and said, “I’m sorry.”

Sorry? The group of five red wines I tried have no reason to apologize. They were all competently made and can stand with pride among the ranks of commercial wines produced and sold all over the world. What they lack is any sense of distinctiveness, or, to use a bit of wine jargon, terroir.

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