The first thing you’ll notice about Lumos, a dimly lit bar in New York’s Greenwich Village that opened this past May, is an aroma you can’t quite place. It unfolds like a Russian nesting doll, first recalling the distinctly eastern perfume of warm bean-paste pastries and soy-rich broths; then sweet, overripe fruit and flowers in full bloom; and finally, something deliciously fetid, like stinky cheese. It’s a smell that doesn’t usually belong in a cocktail lounge, but then again, this is New York’s first bar dedicated exclusively to baijiu—the potent Chinese spirit knocked back by Beijing businessmen that’s quickly become the next big trend-setting spirit in the States.